Greatness Code altyazı (761146)

1
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As far as riding a wave,

2
00:00:12,930 --> 00:00:15,220
there's just something that feels supernatural about it.

3
00:00:17,351 --> 00:00:19,351
We're riding something that, you know, that

4
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the forces of nature and the universe are just throwing them at us.

5
00:00:22,272 --> 00:00:24,152
Like, "Here's something free to go ride."

6
00:00:27,861 --> 00:00:30,031
I feel like it's a feedback loop, you know?

7
00:00:31,198 --> 00:00:34,408
What I put in and what I get out, it's telling me if I'm doing it right.

8
00:00:35,577 --> 00:00:39,077
I really think of it like a spiritual experience for myself every day.

9
00:00:40,541 --> 00:00:43,881
You know, the feeling of riding a wave, tapping that energy that's there...

10
00:00:44,878 --> 00:00:46,708
I'm not a religious person. That's my church.

11
00:00:46,797 --> 00:00:48,467
You know, my church is surfing, and...

12
00:00:49,758 --> 00:00:52,428
there's nowhere else in the world that I get that feeling from.

13
00:01:00,936 --> 00:01:03,186
In 1997, it was halfway through the year,

14
00:01:03,272 --> 00:01:07,112
and I talked to my boss from Quiksilver, who was my sponsor at the time.

15
00:01:07,526 --> 00:01:11,196
And I said, "If I don't win the world title this year, I'm gonna retire."

16
00:01:11,280 --> 00:01:13,620
And I said, "If I do win the world title this year, though,

17
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I'm gonna try and surf one more year

18
00:01:15,576 --> 00:01:17,826
and see if I can get five world titles in a row."

19
00:01:19,830 --> 00:01:24,170
Came into the final event of the year needing to get third place or better

20
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in order to win the world title,

21
00:01:25,502 --> 00:01:28,802
which would be my lifelong dream of winning five in a row.

22
00:01:30,799 --> 00:01:32,799
If you're gonna make a career in pro surfing,

23
00:01:32,885 --> 00:01:35,755
you're gonna go out and surf competition, you're gonna prove yourself.

24
00:01:35,846 --> 00:01:39,266
The two years prior to that, I had such a steely determination and focus.

25
00:01:39,349 --> 00:01:42,599
I won more contests more consistently than I ever had,